Abstract
The instability and nonlinear evolution of directional ocean waves is investigated numerically by means of simulations of the governing kinetic equation for narrow-band surface waves. Our simulation results reveal the onset of the modulational instability for long-crested wave trains, which agrees well with recent large-scale experiments in wave basins, where it was found that narrower directional spectra lead to self-focusing of ocean waves and an enhanced probability of extreme events. We find that the modulational instability is nonlinearly saturated by a broadening of the wave spectrum, which leads to the stabilization of the water-wave system. Applications of our results to other fields of physics, such as nonlinear optics and plasma physics, are discussed.
Original language | English |
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Article number | 014501 |
Number of pages | 4 |
Journal | Physical Review Letters |
Volume | 105 |
Issue number | 1 |
DOIs | |
Publication status | Published - 30 Jun 2010 |
Keywords
- directional ocean waves
- kinetic equation
- narrow band surface waves